Planting Guide.

Introduction

The pride and joy of bringing home a new plant or plants for the garden can be an exciting experience for the new or old time gardener.
Understanding the plant's needs and wants is just as important as bringing home a new baby. Too many people see and admire a plant in the Nursery, Garden Centre or Garden Shop and decide that this is the plant for their garden.
The first steps recommended being taken before you decide if this plant is going to survive in your garden is to ask a garden expert the following advice: -

What type of soil will it survive in?

Does it need a lot of sun or shade?

Will it take hot winds or frosts?

What type of fertiliser to use, when to feed it, and how often?

Does the plant need staking? What type and size of stakes are needed to support the plant? How do I secure the plant to the stake and what material do I use?

The most important advice I need to know is the watering programme!

How can I save water?

How can I save water in my garden with my newly planted shrubs?

The most common killer of plants is the lack of knowledge regarding the correct amount of water to give each plant. Some people will buy a selection of plants and not ask a salesperson information about them.

A common practise occurs with Native plants is that some people think that they only need watering once a week, hence upon taking a plant home they leave it in the pot for up to a week without watering it and wonder why the plant rapidly deteriorates or dies! Then they return to the place of purchase and bitterly complain.

Do not buy plants if you cannot plant them into the garden within a few days.
Do not plant on excessively hot days.
Use a wetting agent when planting out new plants during the warmer weather. For more information see Easy Wetta

ALWAYS ASK AN EXPERT what the plant needs and treat it like a new born baby!

Planting

Care must be taken when removing plants from containers!
Make sure that the ball (area of soil containing the roots) is not broken as loss of sap to the top of the plant will cause a die back on the growth tips. The plants must be well watered a ½ hour before planting. It is most important that all specimens are transplanted as soon as possible. A delay may lead to drying out which will cause the plants to die back or become weak in growth.

Planting level

When you take the plant out of the container and place the ball of the plant into the prepared hole make sure that the top of the plant’s soil level is kept at the same level of the area you are planting. Placing the plant too deep into the ground allows soil to cover around the trunk and stems causing the bark to rot and eventually the plant will die?. ? This problem occurs when people decide to build up an area with soil around an old tree trunk.

Many plants are killed this way and it is very hard to diagnose the problem without seeing the sited specimen.
A plant that has died from this condition can give an impression when looking at a sample of its foliage that it may have died from not enough water or too much.

Mulch

Always keep the mulch 5cm away from around the trunk of any plant. If the plant has an open wound on the trunk near the base close to the ground, bacteria which break down the mulch can penetrate the bark and cause serious damage.

PREPARATION OF THE GROUND AREA YOU ARE PLANTING

THE GROUND AREA THAT YOU ARE PLANTING MUST BE MOIST.
If the ground area is dry after digging the planting hole, fill with water and allow to drain away before attempting to plant. Soils that hold water for too long may need gypsum worked into the bottom of the hole before planting can begin.

Dig a hole 6 inches deeper than the height of the plant container. Mix some Compost or Copra Plus Garden Mulch blended with some well rotted Cow Manure into the bottom of the hole.
The width of the hole should be dug wide enough so that there is plenty of room left when the plant ball is placed into the hole. Once the plant has been inserted into the hole the gap around the root system should be half the width of the new plant root ball all the way around. This then allows enough space to replace the new prepared soil mixture around the plant ball.
NEW SOIL MIX:- this is made up of half the original soil dug from the hole and half compost or Copra Plus Garden Mulch. This must be well mixed before inserting into the hole.

Sprinkle a measured amount of slow release fertiliser into the bottom of the hole and cover with two or three inches of soil. This amount of fertiliser applies to a 6-inch pot plant size only. Read the directions on the fertiliser container for planting out larger types.

Plastic pots

The soil around the roots of the plants must be very moist before attempting to remove the pot away from the ball of the plant. If the plant is still dry, then soak it in a bucket of water until the bubbles stop rising. Leave the plant to stand for ½ an hour before planting to allow the excess water to drain away from the plant's soil.

Carefully turn the plant upside down, placing the main stem between your fingers so that the plant will not fall to the ground when removed from the container. Tap the edge of the pot on a solid object very lightly so the plant becomes loose and falls away from the pot. Always tap the pot on a high object to prevent the plant's foliage from hitting the ground.

Plastic Bags

Cut the plastic bag away from the ball of the plant with a pair of scissors, making sure not to cut through any of the roots, then lift the plant away from the plastic bag. Make sure that the plant's soil is moist before transplanting.

After removing the container from the plant, Gently set the plant down into the prepared hole in the ground.

Replace the soil mixed with some Compost or Copra Plus Garden Mulch and lightly firm down the ground with your foot. Make sure you leave a 4-inch deep saucer shape hollow around the plant to collect moisture when you water. Water some Easy Wetta around the plant root system to help retain the moisture. When planting larger plants you will need a deeper saucer so consult a Nursery person if you are not sure of what size to make.

Fill up the hollow with water and repeat again after the water has soaked away. If the ground is very dry, repeat the procedure once more.

Staking

This would be the third most important part of planting out new trees and shrubs. When planting larger plants it is essential that you use two stakes. The two stakes are driven into the ground each side of the tree, far enough away from the plant so that the roots are not damaged, making sure that the strongest winds blow the plants between the two stakes and not against them.

Make sure that the branches and trunk are allowed to move freely between the stakes, but still restricting some movement. The tying material must be soft so as not to cut into the plant. Some people save all their old stockings during the year just for tying up the new trees when they plant them. A tree that is slightly loose will develop a much stronger root system, so do not tie the plant too tightly to the stakes.

Stakes can be removed 6 months or longer after planting. Too many times people have untied the plant and removed the stakes only to discover that a strong storm is approaching a week or two later. If the stakes are still left in the ground, it is much easier to secure the plants in a short time.

Watering

How much water should we give that new planted tree or shrub is an age old question.

This is a question no one can give the exact answer and this is because every type of soil differs from one garden bed to another. How many trees already growing in that area, is it a windy position, is the soil sandy or clay, does water drain to this position from another part of the garden? The list goes on and on. We can only give you a rough guide line to follow and the rest is up to you. When you first purchase those new shrubs and trees, ask the assistant how much water is needed when they are first planted, but first explain the position and soil type.

For the first two years a minimum amount of water to each plant would be a third of a bucket, (six to eight inch pot size plants only) every other day. This rule of thumb applies to the warmer weather so if you are not sure what to do during the rest of the year, then consult a plant expert. For larger trees and shrubs, consult your nursery assistant for more advice on watering as well as how much water to give each day for the newly planted.

NOTE:- Larger plants need more water than the above recommended rate. The more water these plants receive, the stronger and more quickly it will grow. A dripper system would be the most effective means of deep watering. Deep watering of young plants encourages the new root system to travel deep into the ground. This method will help the tree in drought years and encourage it to develop a rigid root system to withstand strong winds.

For a long time people have been planting out medium sized trees and shrubs in their gardens and watching them die. One of the main problems is usually lack of water. It is very hard to soak water deeply into the soil around the plant's root system when the water keeps on running away across the top of the ground surface.

Greenwell is the gardener's answer to water saving and healthy new trees and shrubs. The design looks like a top section of a compost bin. The top diameter - 430mm, base - 495mm, height - 490mm. First the tree or shrub is planted into the ground and staked. Next the Greenwell is placed around the tree.
The Greenwell has a special water proof join in the side allowing the ring to be pulled apart and joined together again after being place around trees or shrubs. With the Greenwell placed around the base of the new plant and the sides pushed into the ground to a depth of three to four inches, the container can now be filled with water.
The Greenwell directs the water and fertiliser down into the soil to the root zone. The deep sides hold 26 litres of water when 20% full of water, thus eliminating water run-off. During the Winter months it will prevent water lying around the root zone. Ideal for trees planted in Lawns or for growing Tomatoes in a small back yard where there is only lawn.
This is a must for every good gardener who wants their new trees and shrubs to grow healthy and strong. One of the best and most important garden inventions I have seen for a long time. I highly recommend you try one today!

Feeding

There is a lot to be said about feeding the garden, this is just a small guide line.

A following up each year with a slow release fertiliser Nitrophoska, Osmocote or AUSSIECOTE® will keep the plants healthy and full of growth. Give your garden a good application of organic fertiliser (Neutrog Rapid Raiser, Dynamic Lifter etc.) at least twice a year, as this will not only feed the plants but also encourage the native worms to burrow around .and help aerate the top surface area of the soil.

If you have a problem with soil deficiency, this can be overcome by taking some leaf samples IN A PLASTIC BAG to the Nursery and let the experts solve it for you. REMEMBER - do not leave the plant until it dies before taking a sample for identification in most case the plant problem cannot be solved.

Mulching the plants

Mulching your plants is one of the best ways of saving water and is also a way to help keep the ground cool. It must consist of loose materials that will allow free access of air to the soil as well as water to soak in and not run off. The bottom of the mulch will decompose away and with the aid of worms will then be turned into organic feed for the plants. Sandy soils mulch keeps heavy rains from washing out the nutrients and humus particles. Clay soils are kept in moist conditions which is important for crumb structure type soils.

Mulch applied during the hot summer months will keep the surface roots of plants cool and moist and help prevent the scorching of the foliage. Did you know that a heavy blanket of mulch will also help keep the weeds under control?

Mulch comes in many forms and can be used in all sorts of ways.

BASE MULCH This type of mulch is made up of munched up leaves, straw, old lawn clippings, well-rotted cow manure, wood shavings and any type of material that will rot away finally into compost. This mixture is the base layer for the natural organic ground cover. CARE must be taken not to put a layer more than 10 cm thick.

TOP MULCH mulch of this type is the most important because this is used to cover the base mulch. These types are made from Pine Bark, Pine Chips, Lucerne Mulch, Pea Straw etc., and they give a natural appearance to the surroundings, especially for native gardens. There are other types of mulches such as Gravel, Pebbles, Scoria, etc.

PLEASE NOTE if you are mulching shallow rooted plants in a hot area, we suggest not to use stone type mulches. These tend to absorb heat and then transfer the heat to soil below. This action could burn or damage the root system in some way.